Memo # 11: Transforming a commodity coffee into a specialty coffee

Today I want to share one of our recent experiences with Jhonatan Arias, a young coffee grower from the region of Huila, Colombia. Before collaborating with Desnudo, Jhonatan was dedicated to traditional commodity coffee production. He now aspires to venture into specialty and high-value coffee production. The first step in this transformation was to evaluate the coffee already produced. This stage is particularly interesting, as some coffee growers, like Jhonatan, have never tasted their own coffee! I'll note the coffee holds great potential but has an astringent aftertaste, due mainly to poor harvesting methods. 

Hence, the simplest yet most significant next step is to carry out a perfect harvest, selecting only ripe fruits. Jhonatan did an excellent job, and he told me it was the first time he achieved such quality in harvesting! Subsequently, we implemented three fermentation methods: aerobic (with oxygen), anaerobic (in the absence of oxygen), and lactic (favoring lactic bacteria). The latter option was particularly fascinating to me. The grain obtained after lactic fermentation acquires a pinkish hue; some producers who use this method call it "pink honey" due to the pigmentation the grain obtains. Upon drying, the grain takes on a yellowish hue and somewhat resembles the honey process, but with uniform tones and no spots.

We dried the new coffee harvest on solar drying beds for 15 to 20 days, followed by roasting and cupping. The outcomes were highly satisfying: Jhonatan's coffee developed sweet flavors of caramel and panela, with bright acidity and notes of orange and grapefruit. Lactic fermentation yielded the best results, scoring 86 points in cupping. Personally, I enjoyed this coffee very much, undoubtedly qualifying as a specialty coffee.

Now, Jhonatan must replicate this process, and we hope to establish a long-term relationship, supporting his excellent work. Undoubtedly, the willingness to improve and the tireless work of producers like Jhonatan are essential for obtaining truly specialty coffee.

With love,

Manolo